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Denali -- "The High One" in the Athabaskan language of the area's indigenous people -- rears its snowy bulk above the surrounding mountains. (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
In a world that somehow seems smaller and tamer every year, Alaska is still vast and wild. The first half of our two-part tour to this great northern state splits its time (generally at least) between tiny Saint Paul island (a mere speck in the Bering Sea) and the interior around Denali National Park, where endless stands of birch and alder give way to equally extensive spruce forests studded with occasional patches of tundra.
Alaska's famously fickle weather proved largely benign this year, with our rainiest periods reserved for the days we traveled back and forth to Denali. Unfortunately, Alaska's famously (or perhaps I should say INfamously) fickle flights were less cooperative. We spent two long days sitting in the Anchorage airport waiting for a flight that most of us never got on. And while a lucky trio winged out to Saint Paul for just under 24 hours, the rest of us explored Arctic Valley and the wild and scenic Glen Highway. (While flight delays into and out of the Pribilofs sometimes occur, this is the only time I'm aware of in nearly 30 years of Field Guides Alaska tours that we haven't gotten our full group out to the Pribs.)
On Saint Paul, our lucky threesome spent a whirlwind evening and morning visiting the island's famous seabird cliffs plus a few noted hotspots where lingering vagrants had been seen. At the cliffs, a cacophony of sound and motion (and smell!) nearly overwhelmed: Common and Thick-billed murres jostled on ledges, Tufted and Horned puffins guarded burrow entrances, Crested Auklets waved curlicue crests, tight flocks of Least Auklets swept out to sea and back or squabbled with their Parakeet Auklet neighbors, and Northern Fulmars sailed past on frosty gray wings. Red-legged and Black-legged kittiwakes bathed together in a freshwater pond, a pair of "Bewick's" Swans hung with their "Whistling" Swan cousin, an adult Yellow-billed Loon floated on the sea, and the first long evening was highlighted by the appearance of an Oriental Cuckoo.
Interior Alaska certainly has real visual appeal: those endless forests, with ranks of gray and purple and snow-dusted mountains rising behind them. Graceful Trumpeter Swans and snazzy Common Loons floated on lakes. Shaggy Moose grazed on roadsides. A Northern Hawk-Owl landed on a nearby spruce, glaring fiercely in our direction for a few thrilling minutes before being harried off by a gang of spluttering, anxious American Robins. Blackpoll Warblers and Northern Waterthrushes shouted challenges from treetops, Gray-cheeked and Varied thrushes fluted from roadside spruces, an Arctic Warbler flicked through roadside bushes and a pair of White-winged Scoters floated (snoozing) on a float plane lake. A pair of Bohemian Waxwings flashed over and lit atop a nearby tree. And our bus journey into Denali National Park, where Caribou sprawled on the tundra, Dall Sheep clung to impossibly steep hillsides, a big Grizzly gobbled berries and grass right beside the road, and Golden Eagles soared overhead, was capped by a superb weather day which allowed us to see The Mountain -- the WHOLE mountain -- for much of the day.
Thanks to some of you for coping with the disappointment of this year's failed attempts to get everyone to the Pribilofs with such grace and courtesy, and for continuing to find pleasure in the things we did instead. And thanks to all of you for your spotting and your fine companionship. I hope to see you all in the field again, somewhere, someday!
-- Megan
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
A few shaggy Caribou rest (panting, even though it's only in the 50s) in the willowy tundra of Denali National Park. (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
CANADA GOOSE (Branta canadensis) TRUMPETER SWAN (Cygnus buccinator)
TUNDRA SWAN (WHISTLING) (Cygnus columbianus columbianus)
TUNDRA SWAN (BEWICK'S) (Cygnus columbianus bewickii)
GADWALL (Anas strepera)
AMERICAN WIGEON (Anas americana)
MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)
NORTHERN SHOVELER (Anas clypeata)
NORTHERN PINTAIL (Anas acuta)
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (EURASIAN) (Anas crecca nimia)
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (AMERICAN) (Anas crecca carolinensis)
GREATER SCAUP (Aythya marila)
LESSER SCAUP (Aythya affinis)
HARLEQUIN DUCK (Histrionicus histrionicus)
WHITE-WINGED SCOTER (NORTH AMERICAN) (Melanitta fusca deglandi)
BLACK SCOTER (Melanitta americana)
LONG-TAILED DUCK (Clangula hyemalis)
BUFFLEHEAD (Bucephala albeola)
COMMON GOLDENEYE (Bucephala clangula)
Gaviidae (Loons)
PACIFIC LOON (Gavia pacifica)
COMMON LOON (Gavia immer)
A Mew Gull takes a quick nap in a parking area in Denali National Park -- while keeping a watchful eye out for snacking tourists, of course! (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
YELLOW-BILLED LOON (Gavia adamsii) Podicipedidae (Grebes)
RED-NECKED GREBE (Podiceps grisegena) [N]
Procellariidae (Shearwaters and Petrels)
NORTHERN FULMAR (Fulmarus glacialis)
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
RED-FACED CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax urile)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
GOLDEN EAGLE (Aquila chrysaetos)
NORTHERN HARRIER (Circus cyaneus)
BALD EAGLE (Haliaeetus leucocephalus)
RED-TAILED HAWK (HARLAN'S) (Buteo jamaicensis harlani)
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
PACIFIC GOLDEN-PLOVER (Pluvialis fulva)
SEMIPALMATED PLOVER (Charadrius semipalmatus) [N]
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius)
GREATER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa melanoleuca)
LESSER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa flavipes)
UPLAND SANDPIPER (Bartramia longicauda)
The gang enjoys an unexpectedly sunny day along the Denali-Paxson Highway. (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
HUDSONIAN GODWIT (Limosa haemastica) SURFBIRD (Calidris virgata)
RED-NECKED STINT (Calidris ruficollis)
DUNLIN (Calidris alpina)
ROCK SANDPIPER (Calidris ptilocnemis)
LEAST SANDPIPER (Calidris minutilla)
SHORT-BILLED DOWITCHER (Limnodromus griseus)
WILSON'S SNIPE (Gallinago delicata)
RED-NECKED PHALAROPE (Phalaropus lobatus)
RED PHALAROPE (Phalaropus fulicarius)
Stercorariidae (Skuas and Jaegers)
LONG-TAILED JAEGER (Stercorarius longicaudus)
Alcidae (Auks, Murres, and Puffins)
COMMON MURRE (Uria aalge)
THICK-BILLED MURRE (Uria lomvia)
PARAKEET AUKLET (Aethia psittacula)
LEAST AUKLET (Aethia pusilla)
CRESTED AUKLET (Aethia cristatella)
HORNED PUFFIN (Fratercula corniculata)
TUFTED PUFFIN (Fratercula cirrhata)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
BLACK-LEGGED KITTIWAKE (Rissa tridactyla) [N]
RED-LEGGED KITTIWAKE (Rissa brevirostris)
A Black-billed Magpie checks for goodies around the boat launch at Westchester Lagoon. (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
BONAPARTE'S GULL (Chroicocephalus philadelphia) MEW GULL (AMERICAN) (Larus canus brachyrhynchus) [N]
GLAUCOUS-WINGED GULL (Larus glaucescens)
ARCTIC TERN (Sterna paradisaea)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
ORIENTAL CUCKOO (Cuculus optatus)
Strigidae (Owls)
NORTHERN HAWK OWL (Surnia ulula)
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
BELTED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle alcyon)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
MERLIN (Falco columbarius)
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
ALDER FLYCATCHER (Empidonax alnorum)
SAY'S PHOEBE (Sayornis saya)
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
GRAY JAY (Perisoreus canadensis)
BLACK-BILLED MAGPIE (Pica hudsonia)
COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax)
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
TREE SWALLOW (Tachycineta bicolor)
VIOLET-GREEN SWALLOW (Tachycineta thalassina)
BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia)
A roadside Grizzly brought out all the nature paparazzi on our Denali park bus. )Photo by participant Bruce Hollingworth)
CLIFF SWALLOW (Petrochelidon pyrrhonota) Paridae (Chickadees and Tits)
BLACK-CAPPED CHICKADEE (Poecile atricapillus) [N]
BOREAL CHICKADEE (Poecile hudsonicus)
Sittidae (Nuthatches)
RED-BREASTED NUTHATCH (Sitta canadensis)
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
PACIFIC WREN (ALASKAN ISLANDS) (Troglodytes pacificus alascensis) [*]
Regulidae (Kinglets)
RUBY-CROWNED KINGLET (Regulus calendula)
Phylloscopidae (Leaf-Warblers)
ARCTIC WARBLER (Phylloscopus borealis)
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
GRAY-CHEEKED THRUSH (Catharus minimus)
SWAINSON'S THRUSH (Catharus ustulatus)
HERMIT THRUSH (Catharus guttatus)
AMERICAN ROBIN (Turdus migratorius)
VARIED THRUSH (Ixoreus naevius)
Bombycillidae (Waxwings)
BOHEMIAN WAXWING (Bombycilla garrulus)
Calcariidae (Longspurs and Snow Buntings)
LAPLAND LONGSPUR (Calcarius lapponicus)
One of the Golden-crowned Sparrows we found singing in Arctic Valley. (Video by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
SNOW BUNTING (Plectrophenax nivalis) Parulidae (New World Warblers)
NORTHERN WATERTHRUSH (Parkesia noveboracensis)
ORANGE-CROWNED WARBLER (Oreothlypis celata)
YELLOW WARBLER (Setophaga petechia)
BLACKPOLL WARBLER (Setophaga striata)
YELLOW-RUMPED WARBLER (Setophaga coronata)
WILSON'S WARBLER (Cardellina pusilla)
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
AMERICAN TREE SPARROW (Spizella arborea)
SAVANNAH SPARROW (Passerculus sandwichensis)
FOX SPARROW (RED) (Passerella iliaca zaboria)
WHITE-CROWNED SPARROW (GAMBEL'S) (Zonotrichia leucophrys gambelii)
GOLDEN-CROWNED SPARROW (Zonotrichia atricapilla)
DARK-EYED JUNCO (SLATE-COLORED) (Junco hyemalis hyemalis)
Fringillidae (Siskins, Crossbills, and Allies)
Patchy, shedding Moose were regular sights along the roadsides. (Photo by guide Megan Edwards Crewe)
GRAY-CROWNED ROSY-FINCH (PRIBILOF IS.) (Leucosticte tephrocotis umbrina) COMMON REDPOLL (Acanthis flammea)
PINE SISKIN (Spinus pinus)
HOARY MARMOT (Marmota caligata)
ARCTIC GROUND SQUIRREL (Spermophilus parryii)
RED SQUIRREL (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus)
MUSKRAT (Ondatra zibethica)
RED FOX (Vulpes vulpes)
ARCTIC FOX (Alopex lagopus)
BROWN (INCL. GRIZZLY) BEAR (Ursus arctos)
NORTHERN FUR SEAL (Callorhinus ursinus)
MOOSE (Alces alces)
CARIBOU (Rangifer tarandus granti)
DALL'S SHEEP (Ovis dalli)
Totals for the tour: 102 bird taxa and 11 mammal taxa