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The snow-covered peak of Denali was visible when we flew from Anchorage to Barrow and back. Though we only visit Denali by land on Part 1 of the tour, it was exciting to see this iconic mountain so well from the air. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
This tour was a whirlwind of adventure as we bounced back and forth between the coastal tundra of Nome and the Seward Peninsula, the humid spruce-and-glacier fjords of the Kenai Peninsula, and the frozen extreme north of Barrow. Birding was fast and furious, and in addition to an incredible diversity of expected breeding birds and mammals, we found a few real surprises along the way.
A direct flight from Anchorage took us far to the northwest to the edge of the Bering Sea in Nome, where we spent three days exploring the three main roads leading from town, each with its own birding highlights. Safety Sound and the Council Road brought us Aleutian Terns, Gyrfalcons, Eurasian Wigeons, a Red-necked Stint, and even two surprise Caspian Terns from the south (rarer than Red-necked Stint here!). Our sojourn along the Kougarok Road helped us find Bluethroat and Rock Ptarmigan, though we ended up only hearing a tantalizing Bristle-thighed Curlew on this trip. The Teller Road produced Northern Wheatears, plenty of Short-eared Owls, and some great looks at Grizzly Bears. One of the most remarkable species of the Nome visit was Eastern Phoebe. Right before we'd arrived, other birders had found an Eastern Phoebe near the Nome River. When we looked, we found a bird actively bringing material into an almost-completed nest in a culvert that ran under the road. It was completely bizarre to find this familiar eastern North American bird out here on the edge of the Bering Sea.
Heading south of Anchorage, we drove through the huge, moist conifer forest at the base of the Kenai Peninsula in order to position ourselves in Seward. This was our point of departure for an all-day boat trip that took us into Kenai Fjords National Park. This year, we chartered a boat just for the Field Guides group, so we got to choose where we went and how much time we spent in certain places -- ideal for bird-finding! Despite a windy forecast, we managed to sneak in along the edges of the fjords and found 10 species of alcids including some eleventh hour Kittlitz's Murrelets at the foot of one of the park's beautiful glaciers. Other highlights from the boat trip included Ancient Murrelets, Parakeet Auklets (at their southeastern-most breeding outpost), Black Oystercatchers, Steller's Sea Lions, Humpback Whales, Dall's Porpoises, and a Sea Otter eating a huge octopus. The sight of hundreds of Tufted Puffins buzzing all around the boat was truly memorable, too.
Leaving the Seward coast, we returned to Anchorage for a flight to the far north: Barrow was up next. Though we see fewer species overall at Barrow than other sites visited on our Alaska tours, this is one of the most fascinating parts of the trip. In addition to a few rare and range-restricted breeding species like the northern eiders, this area also holds the promise of far-flung vagrants trapped at the farthest north point in the USA. This trip was quick to produce, as we found Steller's and Spectacled Eiders, Red-necked Stint and a fantastic male Curlew Sandpiper on the first afternoon of our visit. We spent the next two days getting acquainted with all four of the eider species, and we also tracked down a few other gems such as flyby Yellow-billed Loons and a sleeping Polar Bear - distant, though we ended up with good scope views of this iconic northern predator. Conditions change each time we visit Barrow in spring; this year, the ice was still locked in at Barrow with a lead of open water visible perhaps a half mile offshore, and this kept some of the waterbirds out of reach as we were stuck on the beach. However, we bumped our way out across the gravel to the tip of Point Barrow, the northernmost piece of land in the United States, and found large flocks of eiders and a few Black Guillemots in the small patches of visible open water. Real spring would arrive in Barrow after our departure, but we had a wonderful time checking out the extreme climate of this peculiar northern town.
Alaska is spectacular at any time, but Dave and I had a particularly fun time traveling with this group, and we wanted to thank you for your enthusiasm, flexibility, and good company. We hope to see you out in the field again soon!
Good birding,
-- Tom
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
GREATER WHITE-FRONTED GOOSE (Anser albifrons)
SNOW GOOSE (Chen caerulescens)
BRANT (BLACK) (Branta bernicla nigricans)
Spectacled Eiders performed admirably along the sides of the roads in Barrow. The evening Arctic light showed off the amazing patterns of these special birds to great effect. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
CACKLING GOOSE (Branta hutchinsii)
CANADA GOOSE (Branta canadensis)
TRUMPETER SWAN (Cygnus buccinator)
TUNDRA SWAN (WHISTLING) (Cygnus columbianus columbianus)
GADWALL (Anas strepera)
EURASIAN WIGEON (Anas penelope)
AMERICAN WIGEON (Anas americana)
MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)
NORTHERN SHOVELER (Anas clypeata)
NORTHERN PINTAIL (Anas acuta)
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (AMERICAN) (Anas crecca carolinensis)
REDHEAD (Aythya americana)
This Sea Otter eating a Giant Pacific Octopus was one of the highlights of our boat trip in Kenai Fjords National Park. Photo by guide Dave Stejskal.
GREATER SCAUP (Aythya marila)
LESSER SCAUP (Aythya affinis)
STELLER'S EIDER (Polysticta stelleri)
SPECTACLED EIDER (Somateria fischeri)
KING EIDER (Somateria spectabilis)
COMMON EIDER (PACIFIC) (Somateria mollissima v-nigrum)
HARLEQUIN DUCK (Histrionicus histrionicus)
SURF SCOTER (Melanitta perspicillata)
WHITE-WINGED SCOTER (NORTH AMERICAN) (Melanitta fusca deglandi)
BLACK SCOTER (Melanitta americana)
LONG-TAILED DUCK (Clangula hyemalis)
Due to ice conditions in Barrow, we spent a few hours seawatching and enjoying the passage of migrating geese and loons. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
BUFFLEHEAD (Bucephala albeola)
BARROW'S GOLDENEYE (Bucephala islandica)
COMMON MERGANSER (Mergus merganser)
RED-BREASTED MERGANSER (Mergus serrator)
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
WILLOW PTARMIGAN (Lagopus lagopus)
ROCK PTARMIGAN (Lagopus muta)
Gaviidae (Loons)
RED-THROATED LOON (Gavia stellata)
ARCTIC LOON (Gavia arctica)
PACIFIC LOON (Gavia pacifica)
The colors of female Red Phalaropes are really stunning, and we saw plenty around Barrow. Photo by guide Dave Stejskal.
COMMON LOON (Gavia immer)
YELLOW-BILLED LOON (Gavia adamsii)
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
RED-NECKED GREBE (Podiceps grisegena)
Procellariidae (Shearwaters and Petrels)
SOOTY SHEARWATER (Ardenna grisea)
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
RED-FACED CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax urile)
PELAGIC CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax pelagicus)
DOUBLE-CRESTED CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax auritus)
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
NORTHERN HARRIER (Circus cyaneus)
Our time in Barrow also allowed us to meet the strange and beautiful Steller's Eider. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
BALD EAGLE (Haliaeetus leucocephalus)
ROUGH-LEGGED HAWK (Buteo lagopus) [N]
Gruidae (Cranes)
SANDHILL CRANE (Antigone canadensis)
Haematopodidae (Oystercatchers)
BLACK OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus bachmani)
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
AMERICAN GOLDEN-PLOVER (Pluvialis dominica)
PACIFIC GOLDEN-PLOVER (Pluvialis fulva)
SEMIPALMATED PLOVER (Charadrius semipalmatus)
KILLDEER (Charadrius vociferus)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
WHIMBREL (HUDSONIAN) (Numenius phaeopus hudsonicus)
BRISTLE-THIGHED CURLEW (Numenius tahitiensis) [*]
It was amazing to see Muskox so well just outside of the town of Nome. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
HUDSONIAN GODWIT (Limosa haemastica)
BAR-TAILED GODWIT (Limosa lapponica)
RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres)
BLACK TURNSTONE (Arenaria melanocephala)
SURFBIRD (Calidris virgata)
RED-NECKED STINT (Calidris ruficollis)
SANDERLING (Calidris alba)
DUNLIN (Calidris alpina)
BAIRD'S SANDPIPER (Calidris bairdii)
LEAST SANDPIPER (Calidris minutilla)
PECTORAL SANDPIPER (Calidris melanotos)
SEMIPALMATED SANDPIPER (Calidris pusilla)
A Parasitic Jaeger chased a fish-laden Aleutian Tern right past us at the Nome River bridge. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
WESTERN SANDPIPER (Calidris mauri)
SHORT-BILLED DOWITCHER (Limnodromus griseus)
LONG-BILLED DOWITCHER (Limnodromus scolopaceus)
WILSON'S SNIPE (Gallinago delicata)
RED-NECKED PHALAROPE (Phalaropus lobatus)
RED PHALAROPE (Phalaropus fulicarius)
SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius)
WANDERING TATTLER (Tringa incana)
GREATER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa melanoleuca)
LESSER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa flavipes)
Stercorariidae (Skuas and Jaegers)
POMARINE JAEGER (Stercorarius pomarinus)
PARASITIC JAEGER (Stercorarius parasiticus)
LONG-TAILED JAEGER (Stercorarius longicaudus)
Alcidae (Auks, Murres, and Puffins)
COMMON MURRE (Uria aalge)
THICK-BILLED MURRE (Uria lomvia)
Short-eared Owls were plentiful in Nome this year. This one came by and gave us a good twice-over before moving on. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
BLACK GUILLEMOT (Cepphus grylle)
PIGEON GUILLEMOT (Cepphus columba)
MARBLED MURRELET (Brachyramphus marmoratus)
KITTLITZ'S MURRELET (Brachyramphus brevirostris)
ANCIENT MURRELET (Synthliboramphus antiquus)
PARAKEET AUKLET (Aethia psittacula)
RHINOCEROS AUKLET (Cerorhinca monocerata)
HORNED PUFFIN (Fratercula corniculata)
TUFTED PUFFIN (Fratercula cirrhata)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
BLACK-LEGGED KITTIWAKE (Rissa tridactyla)
SABINE'S GULL (Xema sabini)
The Rhinoceros Auklets that we saw in Kenai Fjords were in full breeding splendor, with their white whiskers and rhino horns. Photo by guide Dave Stejskal.
BONAPARTE'S GULL (Chroicocephalus philadelphia)
MEW GULL (AMERICAN) (Larus canus brachyrhynchus)
HERRING GULL (AMERICAN) (Larus argentatus smithsonianus)
HERRING GULL (VEGA) (Larus argentatus vegae)
SLATY-BACKED GULL (Larus schistisagus)
GLAUCOUS-WINGED GULL (Larus glaucescens)
GLAUCOUS GULL (Larus hyperboreus)
ALEUTIAN TERN (Onychoprion aleuticus)
ARCTIC TERN (Sterna paradisaea)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]
Strigidae (Owls)
SNOWY OWL (Bubo scandiacus)
This male Curlew Sandpiper was a stunning Eurasian addition to our trip. It was foraging along the side of the Gaswell Road near Barrow. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
SHORT-EARED OWL (Asio flammeus)
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)
RUFOUS HUMMINGBIRD (Selasphorus rufus)
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
BELTED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle alcyon)
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
DOWNY WOODPECKER (Picoides pubescens)
HAIRY WOODPECKER (Picoides villosus)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
GYRFALCON (Falco rusticolus)
PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus)
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
ALDER FLYCATCHER (Empidonax alnorum) [*]
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
GRAY JAY (Perisoreus canadensis)
STELLER'S JAY (Cyanocitta stelleri)
BLACK-BILLED MAGPIE (Pica hudsonia)
Here's our group in front of the Holgate Glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park.
NORTHWESTERN CROW (Corvus caurinus)
COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax)
Alaudidae (Larks)
HORNED LARK (Eremophila alpestris)
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
TREE SWALLOW (Tachycineta bicolor)
VIOLET-GREEN SWALLOW (Tachycineta thalassina)
BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia)
CLIFF SWALLOW (Petrochelidon pyrrhonota)
Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)
BLACK-CAPPED CHICKADEE (Poecile atricapillus)
CHESTNUT-BACKED CHICKADEE (Poecile rufescens)
BOREAL CHICKADEE (Poecile hudsonicus)
Sittidae (Nuthatches)
RED-BREASTED NUTHATCH (Sitta canadensis)
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
PACIFIC WREN (Troglodytes pacificus)
Cinclidae (Dippers)
AMERICAN DIPPER (Cinclus mexicanus)
Regulidae (Kinglets)
GOLDEN-CROWNED KINGLET (Regulus satrapa) [N]
Our stay in Nome overlapped with a startling nesting attempt by Eastern Phoebes!! This individual was actively adding material to a nest in a culvert while we watched. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
RUBY-CROWNED KINGLET (Regulus calendula)
Phylloscopidae (Leaf Warblers)
ARCTIC WARBLER (Phylloscopus borealis)
Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)
BLUETHROAT (Luscinia svecica)
NORTHERN WHEATEAR (Oenanthe oenanthe)
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
GRAY-CHEEKED THRUSH (Catharus minimus)
SWAINSON'S THRUSH (Catharus ustulatus)
HERMIT THRUSH (Catharus guttatus)
AMERICAN ROBIN (Turdus migratorius)
VARIED THRUSH (Ixoreus naevius)
Sturnidae (Starlings)
EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris) [I]
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
EASTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (Motacilla tschutschensis)
Our scans of the edge of Safety Sound were rewarded with this bright Red-necked Stint foraging in the flower-studded tundra with a flock of Western Sandpipers and other peeps. Photo by guide Dave Stejskal.
AMERICAN PIPIT (Anthus rubescens)
Calcariidae (Longspurs and Snow Buntings)
LAPLAND LONGSPUR (Calcarius lapponicus)
SNOW BUNTING (Plectrophenax nivalis)
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
NORTHERN WATERTHRUSH (Parkesia noveboracensis)
ORANGE-CROWNED WARBLER (Oreothlypis celata)
YELLOW WARBLER (Setophaga petechia)
BLACKPOLL WARBLER (Setophaga striata) [*]
YELLOW-RUMPED WARBLER (Setophaga coronata)
TOWNSEND'S WARBLER (Setophaga townsendi)
WILSON'S WARBLER (Cardellina pusilla)
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
AMERICAN TREE SPARROW (Spizelloides arborea)
FOX SPARROW (SOOTY) (Passerella iliaca sinuosa)
There was some serious ice up against the shore in Barow when we arrived this spring. Here, a flock of Black Brant migrates past a... POLAR BEAR! That's right, that whitish-yellow lump to the left of the flying geese is a sleepy bear. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
FOX SPARROW (RED) (Passerella iliaca zaboria)
DARK-EYED JUNCO (SLATE-COLORED) (Junco hyemalis hyemalis)
WHITE-CROWNED SPARROW (GAMBEL'S) (Zonotrichia leucophrys gambelii)
GOLDEN-CROWNED SPARROW (Zonotrichia atricapilla)
SAVANNAH SPARROW (Passerculus sandwichensis)
SONG SPARROW (Melospiza melodia)
LINCOLN'S SPARROW (Melospiza lincolnii)
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
RUSTY BLACKBIRD (Euphagus carolinus)
Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
PINE GROSBEAK (Pinicola enucleator)
RED CROSSBILL (Loxia curvirostra)
Dramatic and elegant Long-tailed Jaegers regularly flew past us at close quarters along the coast in Nome. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
COMMON REDPOLL (Acanthis flammea)
HOARY REDPOLL (Acanthis hornemanni)
PINE SISKIN (Spinus pinus)
SNOWSHOE HARE (Lepus americanus)
ARCTIC GROUND SQUIRREL (Spermophilus parryii)
RED SQUIRREL (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus)
MUSKRAT (Ondatra zibethica)
RED FOX (Vulpes vulpes)
BROWN (INCL. GRIZZLY) BEAR (Ursus arctos)
POLAR BEAR (Ursus maritimus)
SEA OTTER (Enhydra lutris)
STELLER'S SEA LION (Eumetopias jubatus)
HARBOR SEAL (Phoca vitulina)
Nesting Rough-legged Hawks showed off their intricate plumage patterns along the Council Road outside of Nome. Photo by guide Tom Johnson.
SPOTTED SEAL (Phoca largha)
MOOSE (Alces alces)
MOUNTAIN GOAT (Oreamnos americanus)
MUSKOX (Ovibos moschatus)
DALL'S SHEEP (Ovis dalli)
Totals for the tour: 163 bird taxa and 15 mammal taxa