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A fine collection of mountain birds -- Lammergeier, Eurasian Griffon and multiple Yellow-billed Choughs -- circles over the Lac des Gloriettes. (photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
When I first co-led this tour in 2013, it was meant to be a one-off, and I had no idea that three years later I'd be leading my 4th tour here in as many years! But boy, am I glad I did. This has been such a fun tour to be a part of -- kind of a birding tour, disguised as a vacation -- and it's been a part of my schedule that I've looked forward to since that first trip. Now with the 2016 outing in the books, I'm as excited about this one as ever, and already looking forward to a return visit next year!
This year's trip featured some hot and sunny weather, pretty much throughout. Though expected in the Camargue region, it seemed even hotter than usual, and certainly drier, while the cooler temperatures expected in the mountains were also a few degrees above what I'd consider normal. In any case, it didn't suppress bird activity as much as I feared, and we wound up with some awesome bird sightings throughout the trip, with a few surprises that may have been a factor of the warm weather (lingering migrants, perhaps?).
The vast marshes, wetlands, and coastal mudflats of the Camargue region are a big draw for tourists and birds alike. The wonderful Greater Flamingo is certainly the most iconic of the region's birds, attracting the attention of even all those non-birding tourists, and we saw our fair share of these gorgeous, gangly birds, including a few large creches of ugly duckling youngsters. But our attention was equally drawn by many of the less-celebrated birds found here. Among the waterfowl, we were particularly pleased to see a large flotilla of Common Pochards on one pond. This is a species we rarely see on this tour. A lone Squacco Heron was a big hit at Mas D'Agon one morning, and 4 species of grebes was one more than we usually see, thanks to a long-staying stray Pied-billed Grebe near St-Martin-de-Crau! Shorebirds were in good supply, with about 20 species seen well, including a group of 4 Eurasian Dotterels hunkering down in a cultivated field, (thanks to that young Montagu's Harrier for those birds!), a trio of rarely seen (on this tour) Temminck's Stints at the lovely Tour de Carbonniere, and a handful of Bar-tailed Godwits among the many regularly seen species here. Mediterranean Gulls showed nicely at Aigues-Mortes, as did the local Slender-billed Gulls at Salin de Giraud, with a surprise Little Gull also a nice find there.
The dry, stony Crau steppe was another of our destinations in the region, and here we enjoyed super looks at a Short-toed Snake-Eagle on the ground, a noisy covey of Red-legged Partridges scurrying across a shrubby field, and a large group (24 at least) of Eurasian Thick-knees hunkered down in the same field. Tawny Pipits, Greater Short-toed Larks, and Lesser Kestrel were among the other good finds here, and not far way near St-Martin-de-Crau, we enjoyed the best views I've had yet of Little Bustards, thanks to my missing a turnoff on our way to the Crau! The many European Rollers we saw perched on the roadside wires were another enjoyable feature of the lowlands, as was the colorful flock of European Bee-eaters that flew close by that first afternoon near Montpellier airport, and the numerous Common Kingfishers we encountered. And let's not forget the super scope views we enjoyed of that massive Eurasian Eagle-Owl perched on a rocky ledge shortly after our delicious picnic dinner near Les Baux de Provence!
Moving to the Pyrenees, we saw a nearly complete shift in the bird species we encountered, with very few birds seen regularly in both regions. While we had very little of the inclement weather that would have produced a good fallout of migrants, we did witness one such occurrence when we were hit by a big thunderstorm in the mid-afternoon on our first day there. The low clouds forced down a migrant flock of 27 White Storks, which then proceeded to circle over the valley near our hotel, trying to find a way across the mountains. Raptor numbers seemed down from other visits, but we still enjoyed many amazing views of Eurasian Griffons, with a few Lammergeiers also showing beautifully up at Lac des Gloriettes. A incredibly cooperative Tawny Owl was a huge hit one evening in Gedre, the first I've actually managed to see on this tour! Woodpeckers were excellent, and we enjoyed wonderful close encounters with the massive Black Woodpecker, while Great Spotted and Middle Spotted woodpeckers also performed admirably. Small bird flocks containing a mix of tits (Crested, Coal, Great, Eurasian Blue), Eurasian Nuthatch, and both Goldcrest and Firecrest were regularly encountered. And a highly sought-after Wallcreeper was a big find on our hike up to the magnificent Cirque de Gavarnie.
Now, it's a given that the birds are always a big draw on our tours, but I have got to give a shout out to the incredible food and wine that were also daily features of this trip. From the flaky, buttery croissants on the breakfast buffets each morning, to the mouth-watering array of delectable dishes that were laid out in front of us each evening, this was a true gourmand's tour as well. And you just couldn't go wrong with the wine choices that were available. Those Cotes-du-Rhones were especially memorable! It was also memorable to share all of these sightings, meals, and drinks with such a compatible group of fellow travelers. Dave and I had a great time with all of you, and look forward to another trip with you sometime soon. In the meantime, keep well, and remember -- "gentil" and "jolie" have two very different meanings! ;-)
A bientot,
-- Jay
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
A handful of Greater Flamingos -- iconic birds of the Camargue -- forage below some resting Great Cormorants. This was only a tiny fraction of the masses we saw! (photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
MUTE SWAN (Cygnus olor) COMMON SHELDUCK (Tadorna tadorna)
GADWALL (Anas strepera)
MALLARD (Anas platyrhynchos)
NORTHERN SHOVELER (Anas clypeata)
NORTHERN PINTAIL (Anas acuta)
GREEN-WINGED TEAL (EURASIAN) (Anas crecca crecca)
COMMON POCHARD (Aythya ferina)
Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies)
RED-LEGGED PARTRIDGE (Alectoris rufa)
RING-NECKED PHEASANT (Phasianus colchicus)
Podicipedidae (Grebes)
LITTLE GREBE (Tachybaptus ruficollis)
PIED-BILLED GREBE (Podilymbus podiceps)
GREAT CRESTED GREBE (Podiceps cristatus)
The charming little Eurasian Robin was a regular sight in the mountains. (photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
EARED GREBE (Podiceps nigricollis) Phoenicopteridae (Flamingos)
GREATER FLAMINGO (Phoenicopterus roseus)
Ciconiidae (Storks)
WHITE STORK (Ciconia ciconia)
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
GREAT CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax carbo)
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea)
PURPLE HERON (Ardea purpurea)
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
LITTLE EGRET (Egretta garzetta)
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)
SQUACCO HERON (Ardeola ralloides)
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)
Pandionidae (Osprey)
The imposing cliffs of the Cirque de Gavarnie dwarf the Gavarnie Falls -- the tallest waterfall in France at 1,384 feet. (photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus) Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
LAMMERGEIER (Gypaetus barbatus)
EUROPEAN HONEY-BUZZARD (Pernis apivorus)
EURASIAN GRIFFON (Gyps fulvus)
SHORT-TOED SNAKE-EAGLE (Circaetus gallicus)
GOLDEN EAGLE (Aquila chrysaetos)
EURASIAN MARSH-HARRIER (Circus aeruginosus)
NORTHERN HARRIER (EURASIAN) (Circus cyaneus cyaneus)
MONTAGU'S HARRIER (Circus pygargus)
EURASIAN SPARROWHAWK (Accipiter nisus)
RED KITE (Milvus milvus)
Close views of a pair of Black Woodpeckers were a highlight of our visit to the forest at Le Lienz. (photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
BLACK KITE (Milvus migrans) COMMON BUZZARD (Buteo buteo)
Otididae (Bustards)
LITTLE BUSTARD (Tetrax tetrax)
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
EURASIAN MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus chloropus)
EURASIAN COOT (Fulica atra)
Burhinidae (Thick-knees)
EURASIAN THICK-KNEE (Burhinus oedicnemus)
Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
BLACK-WINGED STILT (Himantopus himantopus)
PIED AVOCET (Recurvirostra avosetta)
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
NORTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus vanellus)
KENTISH PLOVER (KENTISH) (Charadrius alexandrinus alexandrinus)
COMMON RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius hiaticula)
LITTLE RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius dubius)
EURASIAN DOTTEREL (Charadrius morinellus)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
COMMON SANDPIPER (Actitis hypoleucos)
GREEN SANDPIPER (Tringa ochropus)
COMMON GREENSHANK (Tringa nebularia)
WOOD SANDPIPER (Tringa glareola)
COMMON REDSHANK (Tringa totanus)
EURASIAN CURLEW (Numenius arquata)
A young Common Ringed Plover keeps a watchful eye on us at Salin de Giraud. (photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
BAR-TAILED GODWIT (Limosa lapponica) RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres)
CURLEW SANDPIPER (Calidris ferruginea)
TEMMINCK'S STINT (Calidris temminckii)
SANDERLING (Calidris alba)
DUNLIN (Calidris alpina)
LITTLE STINT (Calidris minuta)
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
SLENDER-BILLED GULL (Chroicocephalus genei)
BLACK-HEADED GULL (Chroicocephalus ridibundus)
LITTLE GULL (Hydrocoloeus minutus)
MEDITERRANEAN GULL (Ichthyaetus melanocephalus)
YELLOW-LEGGED GULL (Larus michahellis)
CASPIAN TERN (Hydroprogne caspia)
BLACK TERN (EURASIAN) (Chlidonias niger niger)
A flock of some 30 gorgeous European Bee-eaters passed right over our heads near the Montpellier Airport. (photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
WHISKERED TERN (Chlidonias hybrida) COMMON TERN (Sterna hirundo)
SANDWICH TERN (Thalasseus sandvicensis)
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I]
COMMON WOOD-PIGEON (Columba palumbus)
EUROPEAN TURTLE-DOVE (Streptopelia turtur)
EURASIAN COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decaocto)
Strigidae (Owls)
EURASIAN EAGLE-OWL (Bubo bubo)
LITTLE OWL (Athene noctua)
TAWNY OWL (Strix aluco)
Apodidae (Swifts)
ALPINE SWIFT (Apus melba)
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
Yes, it's a bit small in the photo, but it's a Eurasian Eagle-Owl, and we saw it during daylight hours, as a fine post-prandial treat after our picnic hors-d'oeuvres supper. (photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
COMMON KINGFISHER (Alcedo atthis) Meropidae (Bee-eaters)
EUROPEAN BEE-EATER (Merops apiaster)
Coraciidae (Rollers)
EUROPEAN ROLLER (Coracias garrulus)
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
MIDDLE SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos medius)
GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Dendrocopos major)
BLACK WOODPECKER (Dryocopus martius)
EURASIAN GREEN WOODPECKER (Picus viridis)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
Mistle Thrushes were the most common of the large thrushes we saw on the tour. (photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
LESSER KESTREL (Falco naumanni) EURASIAN KESTREL (Falco tinnunculus)
EURASIAN HOBBY (Falco subbuteo)
Laniidae (Shrikes)
RED-BACKED SHRIKE (Lanius collurio)
SOUTHERN GRAY SHRIKE (Lanius meridionalis)
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
EURASIAN JAY (Garrulus glandarius)
EURASIAN MAGPIE (Pica pica)
RED-BILLED CHOUGH (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax)
YELLOW-BILLED CHOUGH (Pyrrhocorax graculus)
EURASIAN JACKDAW (Corvus monedula)
ROOK (Corvus frugilegus)
CARRION CROW (Corvus corone)
COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax)
Alaudidae (Larks)
GREATER SHORT-TOED LARK (Calandrella brachydactyla)
CRESTED LARK (Galerida cristata)
SKY LARK (Alauda arvensis)
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia)
EURASIAN CRAG-MARTIN (Ptyonoprogne rupestris)
BARN SWALLOW (Hirundo rustica)
The lovely scenery around Les Baux, in the limestone hills of Les Alpilles. (photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
COMMON HOUSE-MARTIN (Delichon urbicum) Paridae (Tits, Chickadees, and Titmice)
COAL TIT (Periparus ater)
CRESTED TIT (Lophophanes cristatus)
MARSH TIT (Poecile palustris)
EURASIAN BLUE TIT (Cyanistes caeruleus)
GREAT TIT (Parus major)
Aegithalidae (Long-tailed Tits)
LONG-TAILED TIT (Aegithalos caudatus)
Sittidae (Nuthatches)
EURASIAN NUTHATCH (Sitta europaea)
Tichodromidae (Wallcreeper)
WALLCREEPER (Tichodroma muraria)
Certhiidae (Treecreepers)
EURASIAN TREECREEPER (Certhia familiaris)
SHORT-TOED TREECREEPER (Certhia brachydactyla)
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
Citril Finch is one of the targets of our visit to the Cirque de Gavarnie, and this one certainly made itself very obvious! (photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
EURASIAN WREN (Troglodytes troglodytes) [*] Cinclidae (Dippers)
WHITE-THROATED DIPPER (Cinclus cinclus)
Regulidae (Kinglets)
GOLDCREST (Regulus regulus)
FIRECREST (Regulus ignicapilla)
Cettiidae (Bush-Warblers and Allies)
CETTI'S WARBLER (Cettia cetti)
Phylloscopidae (Leaf Warblers)
WILLOW WARBLER (Phylloscopus trochilus)
COMMON CHIFFCHAFF (Phylloscopus collybita)
Acrocephalidae (Reed-Warblers and Allies)
EURASIAN REED-WARBLER (Acrocephalus scirpaceus)
Cisticolidae (Cisticolas and Allies)
ZITTING CISTICOLA (Cisticola juncidis)
Sylviidae (Sylviid Warblers)
EURASIAN BLACKCAP (Sylvia atricapilla)
Surprisingly, we saw only a single Willow Warbler, which was foraging near our mystery warbler in the Vallee d'Ossoue. (photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
GARDEN WARBLER (Sylvia borin) SARDINIAN WARBLER (Sylvia melanocephala)
SPECTACLED WARBLER (Sylvia conspicillata)
Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)
EUROPEAN ROBIN (Erithacus rubecula)
EUROPEAN PIED FLYCATCHER (Ficedula hypoleuca)
COMMON REDSTART (Phoenicurus phoenicurus)
BLACK REDSTART (Phoenicurus ochruros)
RUFOUS-TAILED ROCK-THRUSH (Monticola saxatilis)
WHINCHAT (Saxicola rubetra)
EUROPEAN STONECHAT (Saxicola rubicola rubicola)
NORTHERN WHEATEAR (Oenanthe oenanthe)
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
EURASIAN BLACKBIRD (Turdus merula)
SONG THRUSH (Turdus philomelos)
The group makes a few friends (and selfie buddies) near the forest of Le Lienz. (photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
MISTLE THRUSH (Turdus viscivorus) Sturnidae (Starlings)
EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris)
Prunellidae (Accentors)
ALPINE ACCENTOR (Prunella collaris)
DUNNOCK (Prunella modularis)
Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
WESTERN YELLOW WAGTAIL (Motacilla flava)
GRAY WAGTAIL (Motacilla cinerea)
WHITE WAGTAIL (Motacilla alba)
TAWNY PIPIT (Anthus campestris)
TREE PIPIT (Anthus trivialis) [*]
WATER PIPIT (Anthus spinoletta)
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
YELLOWHAMMER (Emberiza citrinella)
The Moorish Gecko is restricted to the western Mediterranean, including southern France. Those tiny red spots are mites, which are common on this species. (photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
CORN BUNTING (Emberiza calandra) Fringillidae (Finches, Euphonias, and Allies)
COMMON CHAFFINCH (Fringilla coelebs)
EURASIAN BULLFINCH (Pyrrhula pyrrhula)
EUROPEAN GOLDFINCH (Carduelis carduelis)
CITRIL FINCH (Serinus citrinella)
EUROPEAN SERIN (Serinus serinus)
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus)
EURASIAN TREE SPARROW (Passer montanus)
OLD WORLD RABBIT (Oryctolagus cuniculus)
ALPINE MARMOT (Marmota marmota) [I]
NUTRIA (Myocastor coypus) [I]
RED FOX (Vulpes vulpes)
ROE DEER (Capreolus capreolus)
PYRENEAN CHAMOIS (ISARD) (Rupicapra pyrenaica)
Totals for the tour: 158 bird taxa and 6 mammal taxa