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Our first sighting of a Jaguar at Porto Jofre was a dream-come-true for many of us. (Photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
What a wonderful tour! We enjoyed near-perfect weather on this one, with pretty pleasant temperatures throughout and dry conditions during the trip. The drying wetlands of the Pantanal were a little wetter than normal this year due to some weather immediately preceding our tour, but the conditions were darned near close to ideal to concentrate the countless waterbirds and mammals of this region.
This trip certainly lived up to its name, with not one, not two, but THREE Jaguars we spotted during our nearly six days in the lovely and rich Pantanal of Mato Grosso state in southwestern Brazil. Our first was certainly the best, giving all of us plenty of opportunity to revel in the majesty of this fantastic cat, the largest and most powerful in the New World. We really couldn't have asked for better looks than what we got that first morning out of Porto Jofre, and it was wonderful to be able to share the experience with all of you. It was a 'lifer' for everyone on the tour except for our Brazil-based Field Guide and host Marcelo, and it was well worth the wait (35 years of fruitless searching for Jaguar by yours truly all over the New World tropics -- until this trip!). Surely, this area at this time of year must be the best possible scenario anywhere for seeing this beautiful animal.
But it wasn't all about the Jaguars! We actually did see a boatload of great birds on this tour, well over 350 of them, plus a number of other wonderful mammals during our ten days together. High on the list of 'most memorable' include the hundreds of Jabirus and Wood Storks throughout the Pantanal, great views of Bare-faced Curassow and Chestnut-bellied Guan, those 'trained' Black-collared Hawks, both day-roosting and actively foraging Great Potoos, local Black-girdled Barbets, bizarre Red-legged Seriemas, those outrageous Hyacinth Macaws in the Pantanal, dozens of Blue-and-yellow Macaws in beautiful late-afternoon light, dapper Black-bellied and Rusty-backed antwrens, unbelievable Red-billed Scythebill and Great Rufous Woodcreeper, our cooperative little Subtropical Doraditos, the sweet Snow-capped Manakin and striking Helmeted Manakin, a band of local Curl-crested Jays, the local Tooth-billed Wren in the scope, and blazing Scarlet-headed Blackbird. And while we weren't looking at big cats, we enjoyed other mammals such as White-bellied Spider Monkey, all of those goofy-looking Capybaras, a lone South American Coati, close and confiding Giant Otters, and our swimming young Brazilian Tapir. There are lots of others, so read on.
Thanks so much to all of you for giving us the opportunity to guide you on this great trip. Marcelo and I had a blast, and we'd do it all again with you in a heartbeat! We can't wait to see all of you again on another birding -- and mammaling -- adventure someplace else in the world! Take care till then.
-- Dave
KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant
BIRDS
Rheidae (Rheas)
Greater Rhea was an easy mark on this tour. We enjoyed plenty of good looks at these massive, flightless beasts. (Photo by participant Debbie Hilaire)
Tinamidae (Tinamous)
GRAY TINAMOU (Tinamus tao) [*]
UNDULATED TINAMOU (Crypturellus undulatus) [*]
BRAZILIAN TINAMOU (Crypturellus strigulosus) [*]
SMALL-BILLED TINAMOU (Crypturellus parvirostris) – Sometimes you get lucky and you bump into one of these little guys. Very good looks at one walking in the open on one of the trails at Garden of the Amazon.
Anhimidae (Screamers)
SOUTHERN SCREAMER (Chauna torquata) – Including at least one pair with some really tiny chicks at close range. [N]
Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl)
BLACK-BELLIED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna autumnalis) – We never saw huge numbers, but we did have a pretty steady flow on that first evening driving into the Pantanal.
MUSCOVY DUCK (Cairina moschata)
BRAZILIAN TEAL (Amazonetta brasiliensis) – Absolutely gorgeous in flight!
Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows)
CHACO CHACHALACA (Ortalis canicollis) – This one is bigger than the other chachalacas, being closer to the size of many Penelope guans.
CHESTNUT-BELLIED GUAN (Penelope ochrogaster) – This local specialty of the northern Pantanal was easy to see at Pousada Rio Claro.
BLUE-THROATED PIPING-GUAN (Pipile cumanensis) – An every day occurrence once we got to the Pantanal.
RED-THROATED PIPING-GUAN (Pipile cujubi) – Despite seeing a couple of these at Garden of the Amazon, we never really nailed it for the group.
BARE-FACED CURASSOW (Crax fasciolata) – I thought that we'd have to be happy with those really distant scope views along the Transpantaneira on that first afternoon in the Pantanal, but we ended up seeing it exceptionally well a couple of times out of Porto Jofre, and then again right at the portal at the start of the Transpantaneira!
Ciconiidae (Storks)
MAGUARI STORK (Ciconia maguari) – We finally found the good spot for these on our return drive north from Porto Jofre.
JABIRU (Jabiru mycteria) – Seemingly everywhere in the Pantanal, we had days there where we counted at least 200 of these huge storks! Some of the looks that we enjoyed were about as intimate as you could imagine, with pairs nesting right next to the road and other birds standing soldierlike on their favorite sand beaches along the river right next to the boat. Fabulous! [N]
WOOD STORK (Mycteria americana) – HUGE numbers at times in the Pantanal.
Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags)
There is probably no better place to see Jabiru than the Pantanal, and we certainly observed our share. (Photo by participant Debbie Hilaire)
Anhingidae (Anhingas)
ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga)
Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns)
LEAST BITTERN (Ixobrychus exilis) [*]
RUFESCENT TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma lineatum) – I can't decide which is more beautiful, that buff-and-black barred immature bird or the stunning chestnut-necked adult.
COCOI HERON (Ardea cocoi) – Also called the White-necked Heron and a very close relative of our Great Blue Heron.
GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)
SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula)
LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea)
CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)
STRIATED HERON (Butorides striata)
WHISTLING HERON (Syrigma sibilatrix) – Quite responsive to my whistling!
CAPPED HERON (Pilherodius pileatus) – Certainly one of the prettiest of the herons in the New World.
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)
BOAT-BILLED HERON (Cochlearius cochlearius)
Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
GREEN IBIS (Mesembrinibis cayennensis) – The dark bill and face separate this one from the next.
BARE-FACED IBIS (Phimosus infuscatus) – You can always separate this one from the White-faced or Glossy ibis in flight because the legs don't stick out beyond the tail, unlike the other two.
PLUMBEOUS IBIS (Theristicus caerulescens) – A bit pre-historic looking, don't you think?
BUFF-NECKED IBIS (Theristicus caudatus)
ROSEATE SPOONBILL (Platalea ajaja)
Cathartidae (New World Vultures)
Check out this raptor swooping in for a free fish! The local guides have the resident Black-collared Hawks well trained. (Video by guide Dave Stejskal)
TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)
LESSER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes burrovianus) – This one replaced the Greater once we left the forested areas of the north.
GREATER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes melambrotus)
Pandionidae (Osprey)
OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus) – Osprey doesn't breed here, so this must have been a young bird over-summering in the Pantanal. [b]
Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites)
WHITE-TAILED KITE (Elanus leucurus)
SWALLOW-TAILED KITE (Elanoides forficatus)
BLACK-COLLARED HAWK (Busarellus nigricollis) – Those boatmen sure have these birds trained well!
SNAIL KITE (Rostrhamus sociabilis) – The evening flights to the communal roosting sites was really impressive some days.
CRANE HAWK (BANDED) (Geranospiza caerulescens gracilis)
SAVANNA HAWK (Buteogallus meridionalis)
GREAT BLACK-HAWK (Buteogallus urubitinga)
ROADSIDE HAWK (Rupornis magnirostris) – Formerly in the genus Buteo.
WHITE-TAILED HAWK (Geranoaetus albicaudatus) – This was traditionally placed in Buteo as well, but it was recently merged into the Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle genus Geranoaetus.
Eurypygidae (Sunbittern)
Sunbittern makes the "Most Wanted" list for most birders, and we got great looks. (Photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots)
GRAY-BREASTED CRAKE (Laterallus exilis) [*]
GRAY-NECKED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides cajaneus)
ASH-THROATED CRAKE (Porzana albicollis) [*]
PURPLE GALLINULE (Porphyrio martinicus)
Aramidae (Limpkin)
LIMPKIN (Aramus guarauna)
Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings)
PIED LAPWING (Vanellus cayanus) – Some of our looks along the river from the boat were exceptional.
SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis)
COLLARED PLOVER (Charadrius collaris) – A few pairs only at Porto Jofre.
Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
BLACK-NECKED STILT (WHITE-BACKED) (Himantopus mexicanus melanurus) – This distinctive race was recently lumped with our familiar Black-necked Stilt.
Jacanidae (Jacanas)
WATTLED JACANA (Jacana jacana)
Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies)
LESSER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa flavipes) [b]
STILT SANDPIPER (Calidris himantopus) – Both this and the above Lesser Yellowlegs were pretty early for newly arrived fall migrants. [b]
SOUTH AMERICAN SNIPE (Gallinago paraguaiae) – These birds were the nominate subspecies paraguaiae, which may prove to be specifically distinct from the more southerly magellanica.
Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers)
YELLOW-BILLED TERN (Sternula superciliaris) – Great side-by-side comparisons with the next species.
LARGE-BILLED TERN (Phaetusa simplex)
BLACK SKIMMER (Rynchops niger) – There was quite a disparity in size between some of these birds that we saw roosting on the sandbars, likely due to sexual dimorphism.
Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
Being in boats out on the river gave us excellent vantage points for observing shore-loving species like this Pied Lapwing. (Photo by participant Debbie Hilaire)
PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis)
SCALED PIGEON (Patagioenas speciosa)
PICAZURO PIGEON (Patagioenas picazuro) – The heaviest pigeon in the New World.
RUDDY PIGEON (Patagioenas subvinacea)
EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata)
RUDDY GROUND-DOVE (Columbina talpacoti)
SCALED DOVE (Columbina squammata)
BLUE GROUND-DOVE (Claravis pretiosa) – Pretty common, at least by voice, in the Garden of the Amazon area.
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi)
Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
LITTLE CUCKOO (Coccycua minuta) – Like a miniature version of the next species and usually found near water.
SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana)
GUIRA CUCKOO (Guira guira)
STRIPED CUCKOO (Tapera naevia) [*]
SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani)
Strigidae (Owls)
TAWNY-BELLIED SCREECH-OWL (AUSTRAL) (Megascops watsonii usta) – So close!! [*]
GREAT HORNED OWL (Bubo virginianus)
FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium brasilianum) [*]
BURROWING OWL (Athene cunicularia) – Those birds on the way in to Garden of the Amazon really posed for us at sunset.
MOTTLED OWL (Ciccaba virgata) [*]
Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies)
NACUNDA NIGHTHAWK (Chordeiles nacunda) – We had quite a few of these roosting on the ground near the little Anaconda pond.
BAND-TAILED NIGHTHAWK (Nyctiprogne leucopyga) – I can still hear the panic in Marcelo's voice...
COMMON PAURAQUE (Nyctidromus albicollis)
OCELLATED POORWILL (Nyctiphrynus ocellatus) [*]
BLACKISH NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus nigrescens) – At their usual roosting site at Garden of the Amazon.
Nyctibiidae (Potoos)
Guide Dave Stejskal captured this beautiful image of a Burrowing Owl.
Apodidae (Swifts)
AMAZONIAN SWIFT (Chaetura viridipennis) – This one is a fairly recent split from Chapman's Swift.
FORK-TAILED PALM-SWIFT (Tachornis squamata)
Trochilidae (Hummingbirds)
WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN (Florisuga mellivora)
LONG-TAILED HERMIT (Phaethornis superciliosus)
REDDISH HERMIT (Phaethornis ruber)
BUFF-BELLIED HERMIT (Phaethornis subochraceus) – Our looks on the last morning at Piuval were the best. A rather local species.
BLACK-EARED FAIRY (Heliothryx auritus)
WHITE-TAILED GOLDENTHROAT (Polytmus guainumbi) – At our first stop at the northern end of the Pantanal.
BLACK-THROATED MANGO (Anthracothorax nigricollis) – That female sitting on eggs on the nest placed on that dangling dead branch over the water had us mesmerized.
DOT-EARED COQUETTE (Lophornis gouldii) – A surprise was finding a subadult male on our final morning at Garden of the Amazon. Another local specialty!
BLUE-TUFTED STARTHROAT (Heliomaster furcifer)
AMETHYST WOODSTAR (Calliphlox amethystina) – A widespread species, but I hardly ever see it. It was a great find while we were searching our last oxbow margin at Garden of the Amazon.
GRAY-BREASTED SABREWING (Campylopterus largipennis)
FORK-TAILED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania furcata)
GLITTERING-THROATED EMERALD (Amazilia fimbriata)
WHITE-CHINNED SAPPHIRE (Hylocharis cyanus)
GILDED HUMMINGBIRD (Hylocharis chrysura)
Trogonidae (Trogons)
BLACK-TAILED TROGON (Trogon melanurus)
GREEN-BACKED TROGON (Trogon viridis) – A recent split from White-tailed Trogon, which occurs in s. Central America and in S. America west of the Andes.
BLUE-CROWNED TROGON (Trogon curucui) – We almost tipped our boat over trying to get a look at this one near Porto Jofre!
Momotidae (Motmots)
AMAZONIAN MOTMOT (Momotus momota) – Blue-crowned Motmot was recently split into five species. This one occurs in S. America east of the Andes and south of the Colombia/Venezuela region. [*]
Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
RINGED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle torquata)
AMAZON KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle amazona)
GREEN KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle americana)
GREEN-AND-RUFOUS KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle inda) – All too briefly at Garden of the Amazon.
AMERICAN PYGMY KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle aenea) – The tiniest of the New World kingfishers.
Bucconidae (Puffbirds)
Thanks to the head-on view, this White-necked Puffbird appears to have a nasty disposition. (Photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
SPOTTED PUFFBIRD (Bucco tamatia) – Two of these beauties gave us super looks from the boats as we searched for the Cone-billed Tanager.
RUFOUS-CAPPED NUNLET (Nonnula ruficapilla) [*]
BLACK-FRONTED NUNBIRD (Monasa nigrifrons)
WHITE-FRONTED NUNBIRD (Monasa morphoeus) – Not as tied to water as the Black-fronted Nunbird.
SWALLOW-WINGED PUFFBIRD (Chelidoptera tenebrosa)
Galbulidae (Jacamars)
BROWN JACAMAR (Brachygalba lugubris melanosterna) – A few of these little guys at Garden of the Amazon gave us great scope looks. One of the most widespread of all the jacamars.
BLUE-CHEEKED JACAMAR (Galbula cyanicollis) – This one came in right on cue at Garden of the Amazon. A very close relative of the Yellow-billed Jacamar.
RUFOUS-TAILED JACAMAR (Galbula ruficauda)
BRONZY JACAMAR (Galbula leucogastra) [*]
Capitonidae (New World Barbets)
BLACK-GIRDLED BARBET (Capito dayi) – This was one of our big targets at Garden of the Amazon, and it didn't disappoint us - though we did have to wait until the final morning.
Ramphastidae (Toucans)
LETTERED ARACARI (Pteroglossus inscriptus) [N]
CHESTNUT-EARED ARACARI (Pteroglossus castanotis)
RED-NECKED ARACARI (Pteroglossus bitorquatus) – The briefest of looks as a pair flew over the Rio Claro.
GOULD'S TOUCANET (Selenidera gouldii) – These birds really frustrated us, with only about half of the group getting a good look at Garden of the Amazon.
TOCO TOUCAN (Ramphastos toco) – A regular sight in the Pantanal.
WHITE-THROATED TOUCAN (Ramphastos tucanus cuvieri) [*]
Picidae (Woodpeckers)
BAR-BREASTED PICULET (Picumnus aurifrons) – We had fantastic looks of a very close, responsive bird at Garden of the Amazon.
WHITE-WEDGED PICULET (Picumnus albosquamatus) – In the dry, light woodland patches in the Pantanal.
WHITE WOODPECKER (Melanerpes candidus) – One of the most distinctive of all of the woodpeckers.
YELLOW-TUFTED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes cruentatus) [N]
WHITE-FRONTED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes cactorum) – A couple of these responded nicely at Piuval on our final morning.
LITTLE WOODPECKER (Veniliornis passerinus)
YELLOW-THROATED WOODPECKER (Piculus flavigula) [*]
GOLDEN-GREEN WOODPECKER (Piculus chrysochloros) – A male and a female on different days at Porto Jofre.
CAMPO FLICKER (Colaptes campestris)
RINGED WOODPECKER (Celeus torquatus) – We found just the right hole in the canopy to look through with our scope, giving everybody a decent look at this uncommon woodpecker.
LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus)
RED-NECKED WOODPECKER (Campephilus rubricollis)
CRIMSON-CRESTED WOODPECKER (Campephilus melanoleucos) [*]
Cariamidae (Seriemas)
Caiman were a common sight along the waterways. (Photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras)
BARRED FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur ruficollis) [*]
SLATY-BACKED FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur mirandollei) [*]
COLLARED FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur semitorquatus) [*]
BLACK CARACARA (Daptrius ater)
SOUTHERN CARACARA (Caracara plancus)
YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA (Milvago chimachima)
AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius)
APLOMADO FALCON (Falco femoralis) – Just the one bird on our way from Porto Jofre to Piuval. I was expecting more.
Bat Falcons are named for the prey they prefer during crepuscular hunting. (Photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
Psittacidae (Parrots)
PAINTED PARAKEET (PAINTED) (Pyrrhura picta microtera) – We never really got a good study of these - they mostly just flew through the canopy.
MONK PARAKEET (Myiopsitta monachus)
BLUE-CROWNED PARAKEET (Aratinga acuticaudata)
PEACH-FRONTED PARAKEET (Aratinga aurea)
HYACINTH MACAW (Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus) – If you see just one parrot on this tour, it's gotta be this one! We had some nice views on our ride down to Porto Jofre, but it was nice to have these on the grounds of our hotel there, too!
BLUE-AND-YELLOW MACAW (Ara ararauna) – I think the high count that first afternoon at Garden of the Amazon was 48, but there were likely more. Quite a sight at sunset!
RED-BELLIED MACAW (Orthopsittaca manilata) – Several dozen associated with the Moriche palms.
BLUE-WINGED MACAW (Primolius maracana) – Briefly for some at Garden of the Amazon.
YELLOW-COLLARED MACAW (Primolius auricollis) – We didn't see many of these, but we sure had some good looks in the Pantanal.
RED-SHOULDERED MACAW (Diopsittaca nobilis) – Another bird that associated with Moriche palms in this part of the world.
YELLOW-CHEVRONED PARAKEET (Brotogeris chiriri)
SCARLET-SHOULDERED PARROTLET (Touit huetii) [*]
ORANGE-CHEEKED PARROT (Pyrilia barrabandi) – Very briefly.
BLUE-HEADED PARROT (Pionus menstruus)
SCALY-HEADED PARROT (Pionus maximiliani)
TURQUOISE-FRONTED PARROT (Amazona aestiva) – We finally got the looks that we all wanted on the final morning at Piuval.
ORANGE-WINGED PARROT (Amazona amazonica) – A really widespread Amazon.
Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds)
GREAT ANTSHRIKE (Taraba major)
BARRED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus doliatus)
PLAIN-WINGED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus schistaceus)
NATTERER'S SLATY-ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus stictocephalus) – This was the slaty-antshrike that we saw so well at Garden of the Amazon. It's replaced by the next species in the dry woodland in the Pantanal.
PLANALTO SLATY-ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus pelzelni) – This and the above are two of the six species formed after the split of the old Slaty Antshrike.
Black-bellied Antwren is nearly a Brazilian endemic. We scored this beauty on the last morning. (Photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
AMAZONIAN ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus amazonicus) – This widespread but patchy species occurs all of the way north into the Guianas.
CINEREOUS ANTSHRIKE (Thamnomanes caesius) [*]
PLAIN-THROATED ANTWREN (Isleria hauxwelli) – This tiny antbird came in nicely along the loop trail at Garden of the Amazon.
WHITE-EYED ANTWREN (Epinecrophylla leucophthalma) [*]
AMAZONIAN STREAKED-ANTWREN (Myrmotherula multostriata) [*]
WHITE-FLANKED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula axillaris)
LARGE-BILLED ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus longirostris) [*]
RUFOUS-WINGED ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus) – Nice looks, after a little work, in the canopy at Garden of the Amazon.
BLACK-BELLIED ANTWREN (Formicivora melanogaster) – A nice bird to pick up on the final morning of the tour.
RUSTY-BACKED ANTWREN (Formicivora rufa) – This beautiful little antwren showed off well for us along the entrance road into Pousada Rio Claro.
GRAY ANTBIRD (Cercomacra cinerascens) [*]
BLACKISH ANTBIRD (Cercomacra nigrescens) – A pair of these eventually came in for a good look at Garden of the Amazon.
MATO GROSSO ANTBIRD (Cercomacra melanaria) – From the boat, no less!
WHITE-BACKED FIRE-EYE (Pyriglena leuconota) – Talk about shy! It was a real challenge to get a good look at these one afternoon at Garden of the Amazon.
SPIX'S WARBLING-ANTBIRD (Hypocnemis striata) – Warbling Antbird was recently split into seven species, with this one being restricted to Brazil south of the Amazon.
BAND-TAILED ANTBIRD (Hypocnemoides maculicauda) – Another antbird from the boat at Pousada Rio Claro.
SILVERED ANTBIRD (Sclateria naevia argentata) [*]
CHESTNUT-TAILED ANTBIRD (PALLENS) (Myrmeciza hemimelaena pallens) – Pretty cooperative along the start of the loop trail at Garden of the Amazon.
BLACK-THROATED ANTBIRD (Myrmeciza atrothorax) – Another very widespread species, we really had to work at Garden of the Amazon to get a look.
BLACK-SPOTTED BARE-EYE (Phlegopsis nigromaculata) [*]
Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers)
Amazon Kingfisher is one of five kingfisher species we tallied on this tour. (Photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
WEDGE-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Glyphorynchus spirurus)
GREAT RUFOUS WOODCREEPER (Xiphocolaptes major) – This big guy came in nicely at the Great Potoo spot that we checked one afternoon. One of my favorite woodcreepers!
ELEGANT WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus elegans) – Our birds were likely the subspecies juruanus.
BUFF-THROATED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus guttatus) – These pale-billed birds that we saw in the Pantanal were once split out as Lafresnaye's Woodcreeper and they look quite different from the birds we saw at Garden of the Amazon.
BUFF-THROATED WOODCREEPER (DUSKY-BILLED) (Xiphorhynchus guttatus eytoni) – The dark-billed birds at Garden of the Amazon.
STRAIGHT-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Dendroplex picus) – We had at least one great view of this widespread species from the boats at Garden of the Amazon.
RED-BILLED SCYTHEBILL (Campylorhamphus trochilirostris) – I suspect that our birds were the subspecies lafresnayanus.
NARROW-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes angustirostris) – One of the prettiest of the woodcreepers, I think.
STREAKED XENOPS (Xenops rutilans)
POINT-TAILED PALMCREEPER (Berlepschia rikeri) – Very cooperative in the Moriche palms right on the grounds at Garden of the Amazon.
PALE-LEGGED HORNERO (Furnarius leucopus) – We heard a lot of these, but saw very few.
RUFOUS HORNERO (Furnarius rufus) – The 'easy' hornero to see.
RUFOUS-FRONTED THORNBIRD (Phacellodomus rufifrons)
GREATER THORNBIRD (Phacellodomus ruber) – Those yellow eyes make this one unmistakable in the Pantanal.
RUSTY-BACKED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca vulpina) – Always associated with water.
RUFOUS CACHOLOTE (Pseudoseisura unirufa) – Very similar to, and very closely related to the Caatinga Cacholote of n.e. Brazil.
CHOTOY SPINETAIL (Schoeniophylax phryganophilus) – We had a couple of super views of this one in the Pantanal. Still, one of my favorite scientific names of any bird.
YELLOW-CHINNED SPINETAIL (Certhiaxis cinnamomeus) – Close inspection got us looks at that obscure yellowish chin.
CINEREOUS-BREASTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis hypospodia) – Tied to the flooded habitats of the Pantanal.
WHITE-LORED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis albilora) – A rather recent split from the Plain-crowned Spinetail, which sounds quite similar to this one (south of the Amazon, but different from birds north of the Amazon)
Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers)
The scientific name for Chotoy Spinetail is a real mouthful: Schoeniophylax phryganophilus. (Photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
SUBTROPICAL DORADITO (Pseudocolopteryx acutipennis) – Wow – we really got an eyeful of this one in the marshes north of Porto Jofre! Until very recently, this species was unknown as a (austral)wintering bird from the Pantanal. [a]
YELLOW-CROWNED TYRANNULET (Tyrannulus elatus) [*]
FOREST ELAENIA (Myiopagis gaimardii)
LARGE ELAENIA (Elaenia spectabilis) – The few that we saw were likely wintering here from the south. [a]
SMALL-BILLED ELAENIA (Elaenia parvirostris) – The same can be said of these. [a]
SEPIA-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon amaurocephalus) – A single bird at the Great Horned Owl spot on our way out.
SOUTHERN SCRUB-FLYCATCHER (Sublegatus modestus) – The fact that these were out in a marsh makes me believe that these were austral migrants as well. [a]
PLAIN TYRANNULET (Inezia inornata) – Not much to look at. [a]
TAWNY-CROWNED PYGMY-TYRANT (Euscarthmus meloryphus)
SHORT-TAILED PYGMY-TYRANT (Myiornis ecaudatus) – Garden of the Amazon is a great place to see this one, especially along the road in the shortened canopy.
HELMETED PYGMY-TYRANT (Lophotriccus galeatus) – I'm not sure if anyone besides Marcelo and I ever saw this one, but we all certainly heard it at Garden of the Amazon.
FLAMMULATED PYGMY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus flammulatus) – Great looks along the loop trail at Garden of the Amazon and a significant range extension to the southeast for this one. Formerly known as Flammulated Bamboo-Tyrant. The word 'flammulated' refers to the streaking (flammulations) on the underparts of this bird, and not to any particular color on the plumage.
STRIPE-NECKED TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus striaticollis) – Nicely at the edge of the oxbow lake at Garden of the Amazon.
PEARLY-VENTED TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer) – A tiny bird whose name is longer than it is.
ZIMMER'S TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus minimus) [*]
RUSTY-FRONTED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Poecilotriccus latirostris)
SPOTTED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum maculatum) – Great views right at the dock at Garden of the Amazon.
COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum cinereum)
YELLOW-OLIVE FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias sulphurescens) – This one will likely be split into several species sometime in the future, and ours was the race pallescens (you need to keep track of the subspecies of this one).
YELLOW-MARGINED FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias assimilis) – Another species that you need to keep track of - our race was the nominate race assimilis.
GRAY-CROWNED FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias poliocephalus)
BRAN-COLORED FLYCATCHER (Myiophobus fasciatus) – One of the many austral migrants that we saw in the marshes north of Porto Jofre. [a]
FUSCOUS FLYCATCHER (Cnemotriccus fuscatus) – The race here is bimaculatus - there may be some taxonomic revision coming to this species.
VERMILION FLYCATCHER (Pyrocephalus rubinus) – Always a crowd-pleaser!
Time for another photo of our main attraction. Participant Debbie Hilaire shared this Jaguar shot.
YELLOW-BROWED TYRANT (Satrapa icterophrys) – This gorgeous flycatcher didn't stick around too long for us in the marshes north of Porto Jofre.
WHITE-RUMPED MONJITA (Xolmis velatus) – Always in open country.
BLACK-BACKED WATER-TYRANT (Fluvicola albiventer)
WHITE-HEADED MARSH TYRANT (Arundinicola leucocephala) – Surprisingly few in what seems to be perfect habitat for this one.
CATTLE TYRANT (Machetornis rixosa)
RUFOUS-TAILED FLATBILL (Ramphotrigon ruficauda) [*]
DULL-CAPPED ATTILA (Attila bolivianus) – Great looks at this one just down the road from Porto Jofre.
BRIGHT-RUMPED ATTILA (Attila spadiceus) [*]
RUFOUS CASIORNIS (Casiornis rufus) – For some at Pousada Rio Claro. Not very responsive on the wintering grounds, I'm afraid.
GRAYISH MOURNER (Rhytipterna simplex)
SWAINSON'S FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus swainsoni) [a]
SHORT-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus ferox)
BROWN-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tyrannulus)
LESSER KISKADEE (Pitangus lictor) – Always around water.
GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus)
BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua)
RUSTY-MARGINED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes cayanensis)
PIRATIC FLYCATCHER (Legatus leucophaius) – For some on the grounds of Garden of the Amazon.
SULPHURY FLYCATCHER (Tyrannopsis sulphurea) – In the Moriche Palms with the Point-tailed Palmcreepers.
TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus)
Cotingidae (Cotingas)
AMAZONIAN UMBRELLABIRD (Cephalopterus ornatus) – Some of us got onto a wary bird along the Rio Claro at Garden of the Amazon before it completely disappeared.
SCREAMING PIHA (Lipaugus vociferans)
BARE-NECKED FRUITCROW (Gymnoderus foetidus) – A few flybys at Garden of the Amazon.
Pipridae (Manakins)
It is not hard to imagine how the Rufescent Tiger-Heron got its name. Guide Dave Stejskal shared this picture of an immature bird.
FIERY-CAPPED MANAKIN (Machaeropterus pyrocephalus) [*]
SNOW-CAPPED MANAKIN (Lepidothrix nattereri) – It took a little work to get everyone onto this beauty, but it paid off with good looks.
WHITE-BEARDED MANAKIN (Manacus manacus)
HELMETED MANAKIN (Antilophia galeata) – A gorgeous male obliged us along the side of the road as we headed south toward Porto Jofre along the Transpantaneira Highway.
BLACK MANAKIN (Xenopipo atronitens) – This female was a bit of a surprise as we checked one last oxbow lake for the tanager at Garden of the Amazon.
FLAME-CROWNED MANAKIN (Heterocercus linteatus) – After hearing a few of these, we finally tracked down a stunning male across the river from the lodge.
RED-HEADED MANAKIN (Pipra rubrocapilla) [*]
Tityridae (Tityras and Allies)
BLACK-TAILED TITYRA (Tityra cayana)
MASKED TITYRA (Tityra semifasciata)
BROWN-WINGED SCHIFFORNIS (Schiffornis turdina) [*]
WHITE-NAPED XENOPSARIS (Xenopsaris albinucha) – An adult male was a nice find in the marsh habitat north of Porto Jofre. Even in the breeding range, it's a tough bird to track down. [a]
GREEN-BACKED BECARD (Pachyramphus viridis) – A male on our final morning at Piuval was nice to see.
WHITE-WINGED BECARD (Pachyramphus polychopterus)
BLACK-CAPPED BECARD (Pachyramphus marginatus) [*]
PINK-THROATED BECARD (Pachyramphus minor) – This one is at the s. limit of the range at Garden of the Amazon.
Vireonidae (Vireos)
RED-EYED VIREO (MIGRATORY CHIVI) (Vireo olivaceus chivi)
GRAY-CHESTED GREENLET (Hylophilus semicinereus) – We finally got a look on the last morning at Garden of the Amazon after hearing it daily before then.
ASHY-HEADED GREENLET (Hylophilus pectoralis)
SLATY-CAPPED SHRIKE-VIREO (Vireolanius leucotis) [*]
RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE (Cyclarhis gujanensis)
Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies)
PURPLISH JAY (Cyanocorax cyanomelas) – The only jay that we encountered in the Pantanal.
CURL-CRESTED JAY (Cyanocorax cristatellus) – We spotted a group of these cerrado specialists on the bus ride north from Cuiaba to Garden of the Amazon.
Hirundinidae (Swallows)
WHITE-BANDED SWALLOW (Atticora fasciata) – Always tied to rivers.
SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)
GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea)
WHITE-WINGED SWALLOW (Tachycineta albiventer)
Troglodytidae (Wrens)
Hyacinth Macaws -- the world's largest parrots. (Photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
HOUSE WREN (Troglodytes aedon) [*]
THRUSH-LIKE WREN (Campylorhynchus turdinus unicolor) – The birds in the Pantanal are the very plain, unspotted race unicolor.
MOUSTACHED WREN (Pheugopedius genibarbis) – More of a forest-based wren than the next two species.
BUFF-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus leucotis)
FAWN-BREASTED WREN (Cantorchilus guarayanus) – Only at the southern end of the Transpantaneira Highway on this tour.
Polioptilidae (Gnatcatchers)
LONG-BILLED GNATWREN (Ramphocaenus melanurus)
MASKED GNATCATCHER (Polioptila dumicola)
Donacobiidae (Donacobius)
BLACK-CAPPED DONACOBIUS (Donacobius atricapilla) – Lots of great looks in absolutely perfect habitat for this species (now in its own family).
Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies)
HAUXWELL'S THRUSH (Turdus hauxwelli) – We had a very skittish bird in the forest at Garden of the Amazon that likely had an active nest nearby.
RUFOUS-BELLIED THRUSH (Turdus rufiventris) – The most common thrush in the wet habitats of the Pantanal.
CREAMY-BELLIED THRUSH (Turdus amaurochalinus) [a]
Mimidae (Mockingbirds and Thrashers)
CHALK-BROWED MOCKINGBIRD (Mimus saturninus) – Surprisingly few.
Parulidae (New World Warblers)
MASKED YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis aequinoctialis)
TROPICAL PARULA (Setophaga pitiayumi)
FLAVESCENT WARBLER (Myiothlypis flaveola) – Fantastic looks of a very confiding bird on our final morning at Piuval.
Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies)
RED-CRESTED CARDINAL (Paroaria coronata) – A real stunner!
YELLOW-BILLED CARDINAL (Paroaria capitata) – Daily in the Pantanal.
BLACK-FACED TANAGER (Schistochlamys melanopis) – A single adult bird for some at the lake near Garden of the Amazon. A recent invader into the cleared land here.
Giant Otters were very obliging and another mammalian standout of our adventure. (Photo by guide Dave Stejskal)
FLAME-CRESTED TANAGER (Tachyphonus cristatus)
SILVER-BEAKED TANAGER (Ramphocelus carbo)
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus) – Only at Garden of the Amazon on this tour. It's replaced by the similar Sayaca Tanager in the Pantanal watershed.
SAYACA TANAGER (Thraupis sayaca)
PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum) [N]
BLUE-NECKED TANAGER (Tangara cyanicollis) – Our three gorgeous Tangara tanagers were well-seen at Garden of the Amazon.
TURQUOISE TANAGER (Tangara mexicana)
BAY-HEADED TANAGER (Tangara gyrola)
SWALLOW TANAGER (Tersina viridis) – Including a few stunning adult males.
BLACK-FACED DACNIS (Dacnis lineata) – I was a little surprised that this was the most common dacnis at Garden of the Amazon.
YELLOW-BELLIED DACNIS (Dacnis flaviventer) – A beautiful male was seen briefly by a few along the Rio Claro at Garden of the Amazon.
BLUE DACNIS (Dacnis cayana)
SHORT-BILLED HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes nitidus) – A brief female for some at the lake at Garden of the Amazon.
YELLOW-BACKED TANAGER (Hemithraupis flavicollis) – Close to the southern limit for this one.
CHESTNUT-VENTED CONEBILL (Conirostrum speciosum) – These warbler-like tanagers were seen well on our final morning at Porto Jofre.
SAFFRON FINCH (Sicalis flaveola)
WEDGE-TAILED GRASS-FINCH (Emberizoides herbicola) – Great looks in the scopes on our drive to Garden of the Amazon from Cuiaba.
BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina)
RUSTY-COLLARED SEEDEATER (Sporophila collaris) – Including a few stunning males in the Pantanal.
LINED SEEDEATER (Sporophila lineola) – A couple of these in the marshes north of Porto Jofre were a surprise find. They normally winter quite farther north than here.
WHITE-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila leucoptera)
CHESTNUT-BELLIED SEED-FINCH (Oryzoborus angolensis)
RED-CRESTED FINCH (Coryphospingus cucullatus) – A few brilliant males in the Pantanal.
BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola)
We hope you had as much fun as we did on this special adventure. Thanks for being such a great group of birders! (Photo by participant Debbie Hilaire)
Emberizidae (Buntings and New World Sparrows)
SAFFRON-BILLED SPARROW (Arremon flavirostris) – Nicely at Piuval on our final morning of the tour.
GRASSLAND SPARROW (Ammodramus humeralis)
Icteridae (Troupials and Allies)
WHITE-BROWED BLACKBIRD (Sturnella superciliaris) – We had just one flyover individual north of Porto Jofre as we headed to Piuval.
CHOPI BLACKBIRD (Gnorimopsar chopi) – This one specializes on palms, nesting in old woodpecker cavities.
SCARLET-HEADED BLACKBIRD (Amblyramphus holosericeus) – That adult bird next to the road on our drive south into the Pantanal was truly memorable.
UNICOLORED BLACKBIRD (Agelasticus cyanopus) – The males and females really couldn't be more different from one another.
BAY-WINGED COWBIRD (Agelaioides badius) – Not a cowbird at all, this is the preferred HOST species of the Screaming Cowbird.
SCREAMING COWBIRD (Molothrus rufoaxillaris) – This species lacks the purple gloss of the male of the next species.
SHINY COWBIRD (Molothrus bonariensis)
GIANT COWBIRD (Molothrus oryzivorus)
VARIABLE ORIOLE (Icterus pyrrhopterus) – Epaulet Oriole was recently lumped with Moriche Oriole, but the southern, chestnut-shouldered birds were also split off as a separate species, which is what we saw on this tour.
ORANGE-BACKED TROUPIAL (Icterus croconotus) – Another stunner!
SOLITARY BLACK CACIQUE (Cacicus solitarius) – Seemingly easier to see here in the Pantanal than they are in other parts of their wide range.
YELLOW-RUMPED CACIQUE (Cacicus cela) [N]
CRESTED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius decumanus) – These were the likely hosts of the numerous Giant Cowbirds that we saw in the Pantanal.
OLIVE OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius bifasciatus yuracares) – Tough to get a good look at these!
Fringillidae (Siskins, Crossbills, and Allies)
PURPLE-THROATED EUPHONIA (Euphonia chlorotica) – The common euphonia at Garden of the Amazon.
THICK-BILLED EUPHONIA (Euphonia laniirostris)
GOLDEN-BELLIED EUPHONIA (Euphonia chrysopasta) – This one used to be called the White-lored Euphonia (a better name, I think).
RUFOUS-BELLIED EUPHONIA (Euphonia rufiventris)
Passeridae (Old World Sparrows)
HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus) [I]
MAMMALS
Here is one final Jaguar picture from guide Dave Stejskal.
GREATER BULLDOG BAT (Noctilio leporinus) – We saw dozens of these feeding along the river one evening on our way back to our lodge at Porto Jofre.
SILVERY MARMOSET (Callithrix argentata) – This was very likely the 'squirrel' that some saw cross the road in the Pantanal.
BLACK HOWLER MONKEY (Alouatta caraya) – The only one we ever saw was a lone female along the Rio Claro on our first morning in the Pantanal.
BROWN CAPUCHIN (Cebus apella) – We came across a few of these in the big trees just up the road from our Porto Jofre lodge on our final morning there.
WHITE-BELLIED SPIDER MONKEY (Ateles belzebuth) – Great views of a single individual at Garden of the Amazon on our second morning there.
GIANT ANTEATER (Myrmecophaga tridactyla) – Glimpsed by Marcelo and our driver, and maybe a couple of folks in the front of the bus, on our way out of Curicaca Lodge.
BRAZILIAN RABBIT (Sylvilagus brasiliensis)
GUINEA PIG (Cavia aperea) – A few on the airstrip at Porto Jofre early in the morning.
CAPYBARA (Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris) – We saw more of these than any other mammal on the tour - and I can still see three of them on our living room bookcase now!
AZARA'S AGOUTI (Dasyprocta azarae) – Briefly for some from the bus on our final morning at Piuval.
CRAB-EATING FOX (Cerdocyon thous) – Seen by a few only.
SOUTH AMERICAN COATI (Nasua nasua) – One of these walked into the middle of the road north of Porto Jofre while we were enjoying our eye-to-eye looks of Subtropical Doradito.
NEOTROPICAL OTTER (Lontra longicaudis) – Glimpsed by some folks in the Pantanal.
GIANT OTTER (Pteronura brasiliensis) – We had some pretty incredible encounters with this one in the Pantanal! I thought it was super to see a family group of these at the den along the banks of the river. If we hadn't seen a cat on this tour, I think this would have been the mammal highlight!
JAGUAR (Panthera onca) – You all have no idea how worried I was that the first Jaguar that Marcelo and I saw late in the afternoon on our way to Porto Jofre - that no one else saw - was going to be it for the trip! But my worrying was misplaced, since we all had unbelievable looks at a big male right on the banks of the river a few minutes after breakfast the next day! He really hammed it up for all of us, giving us uninterrupted viewing for about 20 minutes. But we weren't done with Jaguars! Another collared individual made an early evening appearance while we were sipping wine and doing our daily checklist in the boat - especially nice since we were the only ones to witness that particular cat emerge from the grass. Our third group Jaguar was a little bittersweet. While it was thrilling to watch this beautiful animal start to swim across the river, it was a big disappointment to watch one of the boats get too close too fast, causing the cat to retreat to the vegetated bank from which it emerged.
BRAZILIAN TAPIR (Tapirus terrestris) – Our afternoon boat trip up one of the many oxbows near Garden of the Amazon was highlighted by seeing a striped juvenile swimming across the channel in front of our boat! We were sure that the mother was around, but she never ventured out of the forest and into the water while we waited in the area.
MARSH DEER (Blastocerus dichotomus) – Only a few of these big deer in ideal habitat.
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS
Totals for the tour: 365 bird taxa and 18 mammal taxa