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The phrase “the Amazon” can’t help but conjure up images of exotic humid tropical forest, huge rivers, high heat and humidity (translating into a lot of sweat)… and lots of birds! Well, all these were true, and we enjoyed each aspect to excess! The tour began in the huge (population: 2 million!) city of Manaus, rather an out-of-the-ordinary place for the Amazon (in my experience, at least), but with patches of forest around its periphery, even within the urban sprawl, it provided some nice birds to start out with. Marail Guans, Waved and Yellow-throated woodpeckers, Black-spotted Barbets, and Amazonian Pygmy-Owl showed especially nicely. Following an exciting early morning on the famed INPA tower, surrounded by thousands of acres of undisturbed forest and highlighted by Guianan Toucanets, Pompadour Cotingas, Paradise Jacamars, Guianan Puffbird, and some nice flock activity at and below eye-level, we continued north to the town of Presidente Figueiredo, where white-sand woodlands with short stature (“campina” and “campinarana”) produced a fabulous lek of Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock, Variable Chachalacas, the fancy Crimson Topaz hummingbird, a gorgeous Spotted Puffbird, the elusive Black Manakin, the handsome Yellow-crowned Manakin, and good views of the little-known Pelzeln's Tody-Tyrant.

Then, in remarkably comfortable air-conditioned pickups on a very remarkably well-graded road, we headed to the MFA (thanks for that, Gregg!), into the Biological Dynamics of Forest Fragments Project research area at Camp 41. Suddenly, we were immersed in Amazonia so exquisitely that no one could complain that they haven’t slept in slings under the stars and near smiling latrine frogs… or experienced the joy of Dona Eduarda's amazing meals and pitchers of cold, refreshing caipirinhas! To be sure, the forest was hotter and drier than normal this year, as it had not rained in three weeks (and we had no real rain, nor hardly a cloud in the skies, the entire tour!). Around Camp 41, we were able to walk trails through pristine terra firme forest in search of understory birds and those mixed-blessing flocks (oops, I mean “mixed-species flocks”), where you crane your neck to the breaking point as tens of small birds dart about during a 15-minute frenzy, then vanish, leaving you wondering what percentage of the flock you actually saw. But that’s all part of the fun, isn’t it? Manakins continued to be good to us, with fine appearances by Tiny Tyrant-Manakin (not much to see there, however), White-fronted (wow!), White-throated (great spot on that male, Jennifer!), White-crowned, and Golden-headed. Some time birding the road into the camp was also well-spent: we were quite fortunate to come across troops of Gray-winged Trumpeters (twice!) and several handsome Black Curassows parading around together. A brief fly-over by a single, small parrot led to scope views of several Sapphire-rumped Parrotlets, always a treat to see perched. We also lucked out with prolonged views of the rarely seen Fiery-tailed Awlbill (really cool to study the bill shape in the scope!), a "first" for Field Guides Manaus tours. Nightbirding at Camp 41 produced good views of White-winged Potoo and heard-only Rufous Potoo (except for eyeshine a couple of times). And then there were all of those non-bird encounters, like the rarely seen Giant Centipede that thought Bret was a bus and climbed aboard (check out the video in the list, below), or the caterpillars, frogs, tarantulas, and other interesting organisms we came across on our outings.

After three days in the warm embrace of the rainforest, we had to leave all that fun behind and head to our amazing river boat, the Dorinha, which was our home for over a week, and where (thanks to the wonderful crew!) we were able to enjoy more great food, wonderful drinks, and comfortable lodging as we plied the clear, black waters of the Rios Negro and Jau, and later the muddy Amazon and Madeira. The comparison of the avifaunas of these different water-types (well, the differences are much deeper, but the water is a good proxy) is striking, and we had the opportunity to do it firsthand! The blackwater islands are older with flooded forest habitats that were quite distinct from the younger islands we encountered in the sediment-laden Amazon and Madeira rivers.

Birding the islands this year was, however, ridiculously complicated. Despite the super-dry conditions, water levels in *both* the Negro and Amazon (quite unusual for both to be out-of-whack) were significantly higher than normal for early September, exactly wrong for birding purposes. There was not nearly enough water to get canoes inside the habitat, yet treacherous, recently exposed mud shut us out of moving on "land" -- a perfect mess! In the Anavilhanas Archipelago, for example, instead of a relatively leisurely walk through the understory of drying seasonally flooded forest, we were unable to even step ashore. In a circus-like effort, we managed to stop our two canoes under the overhanging forest edge, with several of us balancing on a couple of treetrunks sticking out of the mud while the rest stayed in the boats beside us. It didn't seem this plan was going to be very productive for seeing birds, but over the course of that memorable morning, the whole group saw essentially everything we could have hoped for, as bird after bird came in really close by and stuck around -- it was exciting stuff! Highlights included displaying Wire-tailed Manakins, Green-tailed Jacamars, a male Ringed Woodpecker, Ash-breasted and Black-chinned antbirds, the little-known Klages's Antwren, a Streak-throated Hermit, Zimmer's, Striped, and Straight-billed woodcreepers, and, to top off the morning, we dug up a pair of Blackish-gray Antshrikes enjoyed at close range from the canoes before being welcomed aboard the Dorinha with hardly any mud on our feet!

En route to Jau National Park, we stopped at Novo Airão to visit Junior's Three-striped Night-Monkey who stared back at us from its hollow-treetrunk home (wow! really cool!). Pushing up the Negro, we motored slowly through a narrow, winding, forested channel in the Anavilhanas in hopes of seeing Amazonian Umbrellabird, which did not appear, but we were treated to exciting views of seldom-seen Crestless Curassows (three!) flying across right in front of the boat, where our top-deck platform provided the ideal vantage point. We awoke next morning at the mouth of the remote Rio Jau, and eased up to the floating dock at the park headquarters to a beautiful break of dawn. We gathered on the top deck to watch the many birds around us as we waited to get formal clearance to enter the national park. It was good thing the scope was handy right then, because we were soon high-fiving to an excellent sighting of an adult Gray-bellied Hawk perched atop a huge Ceiba tree! There had been just a couple of sightings of this rather rare raptor over the many years of Field Guides Manaus tours. We hiked trails into terra firme in Jau, where many birds differed from those we’d seen the previous week on the other side of the Negro (and in some cases, were “replacement species” which are closely related, but differ across the river barrier). A few major examples seen well were the pairs of big toucans (White-throated/Cuvier's and Channel-billed/Yellow-ridged), Tawny-tufted Toucanets (a magnificent pair that stayed for scope views SHAZAAMM!; replaces Guianan Toucanet); excellent Gilded Barbets (replacing Black-spotted), Amazonian Trogon (replacing Guianan Trogon), White-necked Puffbird (replacing Guianan Puffbird; or was it the Brown-bandeds we saw that affect this replacement?), Scale-breasted Woodpecker (replaces Waved), and also the opposite-bank White-eyed Tody-Tyrant "subspecies" we saw well and discussed. Scoping a pair of Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlets was another rare treat at Jau. The little-known Black Uakari monkey was also seen well (two troops!) this year; we should count ourselves quite fortunate for that indeed. Most unfortunately, however, our dedicated efforts could not produce a single antswarm at Jau this time around, and Pavonine Quetzal and Wing-banded Wren, usually pretty cooperative along the trails, ignored us completely. As, thankfully, did that little fer-de-lance that several of us had stepped right past before Dom Gregg took note and called us back for some reflection on what might have been. Although most folks were too tired to participate in nightbirding searches at Jau, the few of us that did go sure did have fun, with prolonged studies of both Rufous and White-winged potoos inside of 20 minutes! Night cruises in the canoes resulted in some cool mammal (including a tailless tree rat!) and additional herp sightings, and a number of interesting birds as well.

On the Amazon and Madeira, our island-birding challenges continued. Passing Manaus early in the morning en route to the Solimões/Amazon, right on-schedule as is important this day, our cook learned that her mother had just been rushed to the hospital, and, of course, she went to town to be with her (I later learned, most lamentably, that Eugênia's mother died a week or so later). It took about three hours to arrange for a substitute cook at 03:30 (they did a fine job of finding us a very good one!), which put us into Marchantaria Island with a big, orange sun well above the horizon. Not a good thing to see. We would have to scramble. But there was *nowhere* to scramble -- we lost another hour just trying to find a patch of ground safe enough to walk on! Finally, we made it ashore and into a small area of reasonably firm mud to start racking up good sightings of the many species of whitewater-island specialties surely present around us. One by one, they fell into place, with pairs of Castelnau's Antshrikes and Leaden Antwrens performing especially well. A short distance around the corner, we managed another stop on a hump of drying mud that yielded another string of excellent sightings (Olive-spotted Hummer, Parker's and White-bellied spinetails, Black-and-white Antbird, and Island Fuscous Flycatcher and Riverside Tyrant). Whew, we were pretty much back on track as we cruised downriver over the impressive "meeting of the waters" and had a delicious lunch and afternoon siesta. That late afternoon was also quite memorable, with top-deck scope studies of Horned Screamers, and a canoe outing highlighted by Yellow-chinned and Red-and-white spinetails coming into the same grasses and bushes for close comparisons. The curtain dropped against a classic, serene Amazonian sunset with nightjars winging overhead. One heckuva day in the Amazon, that. And the next day, too, which was our last full one aboard the Dorinha. Islands at the mouth of the Madeira gave us *all* of the remaining whitewater-island specialists (hard to do this even under ideal birding conditions), including fabulous sightings of Varzea Piculet, Scaled and Speckled spinetails (sister-species, bringing our spinetail roster to a record-tying 10 species seen and one heard only), River Tyrannulet, and Lesser Wagtail-Tyrant. A brief and somewhat depressing north-bank stop (forest here has been steadily destroyed over the past few years) nonetheless produced Plain Softtail, Glossy Antshrike, Cinereous Becard, and Ashy-headed Greenlet among a nice variety of other species on a hot noon-time excursion.

Along the Rio Amazonas itself, heading back up to Manaus, we were able to explore some secondary habitats—another mixed blessing as more people clear the banks for houses, agriculture, and cattle ranching—and see birds such as Buff-necked Ibis, Southern Caracara, and Savanna Hawk, which have been following the clearing into the heart of the Amazon, where they would have been unheard of only a few decades ago! The phenomenon of migration isn’t lost in the Amazon, either, and we were able to see familiar birds from “home” such as Barn and Bank swallows, Purple Martins, and shorebirds such as American Golden-Plover (a couple of spectacular flocks totaling perhaps 75 coming in over the river and our boat at break-neck speed, right at dusk), Spotted, and Solitary sandpipers and the occasional Osprey! To think that these birds do this *every year* and without an airplane to help out! Or Google Maps. Finally, upon returning to Manaus, we climbed the tower in Reserva Ducke, right beside the city, and got to see many great birds at eye-level, especially those Caica Parrots that, until then, had eluded good scope views. Then, as a super-special surprise, our colleague Marcelo Barreiros alerted us to a day-roost of a Rufous Potoo at Reserva Ducke, and he kindly took us in to see it! What a fabulous way to end the tour -- check out the video, below! The potoos did, indeed, raise a chick on top of that tiny stub (we revisited it twice during the Oct-Nov "Great Rivers of the Amazon" tour -- more video will be coming in that list). Amazing!

As always, it was a great pleasure to share these experiences with you, and Bret and I thank you very much for joining us. We hope you enjoyed the trip as much as we did leading it, and we hope to see you again out there with binoculars on and ready to see more of the wonders of our natural world!

Good birding,

Dan, e com grandes abraços do Bretche!

KEYS FOR THIS LIST
One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS

Ducke Reserve snake (Taeniophallus sp.)

Bret's Giant Centipede (Scolopendra gigantea)

Totals for the tour: 441 bird taxa and 16 mammal taxa